If the adage that “practice makes perfect” is true, then LUPEC members certainly need no lessons in drinking – we are already very, very good at it. But we love to learn (to get perfect-er?) and were eager students at the special Sorrento Drinking Lessons held just for our May 1st meeting. Not even May Day protesters (or at least the traffic of those fleeing them) could keep us from learning all about absinthe from Andrew Bohrer, bartender, cocktail history buff and Spirits Portfolio Manager for Vinum distributors.
Absinthe has
a rich and varied history, from toast of the town in the 1800’s to modern-day bootleg
production in dorm bathrooms. Andrew took us through the developments – such as
the use of wormwood and herbs as additives -- in spirit production that
eventually led to the creation of absinthe in 1797. By 1840 it was the most
popular non-wine spirit around, and vintage cocktail books reflect its use in
many, many cocktails. An entire drinking ritual was created for it, and while
drinks like the Moscow Mule may have their own special serving glass, absinthe
boasts a range of apparatus (take that, vodka!) like the fountain and slotted
spoon.
A victim of
misunderstanding about its ingredients, blamed for psychotic incidents and
later slandered by threatened wineries, “the Green Fairy” was banned in the
United States and elsewhere for up to 90 years. Fortunately for us, the bans have
ended and an explosion of absinthe producers gives us many choices for enjoying
the spirit and using it in cocktails. With the help of Alex mixing and Jen and
Molly serving, Andrew treated LUPEC members to three samples of absinthe and
three absinthe-laced cocktails.
A Test for Our Tastebuds
Our glasses
of Lucid, Trillium and Pacifique absinthes were served in the customary manner,
with a bit of sugar and a ratio of 1 part absinthe to 3-5 parts water. Andrew
explained that the cloudiness in the liquid is called the louche and results
from the water separating the essential oils locked in during the two-step
distillation and maceration process that defines absinthe production. Its green
– vert – shade comes from the chlorophyll of its ingredients. While most
absinthes use the herbs absinthium (wormwood), anise and fennel during
distillation, more variation is used among brands in flavoring the secondary
maceration and that results in a range of distinctive tastes.
Could we
taste the differences among the three absinthes? Indeed we could. The LUPEC
consensus was that the Trillium (not unexpectedly discontinued) was too cloying,
especially compared to the softer, more complex Pacifique (which Wendy compared
to beloved Good & Plenty candies). The Lucid, with a beet base, showed that
the spirit can evolve and still remain true to its roots.
Comparing
their bottles, Andrew also explained some practicalities about absinthe:
because it is a very high proof spirit, it is susceptible (i.e. explosive) to
heat. Therefore, Trillium’s narrow necked bottle was a detriment as it trapped
heat; for us home bartenders, that means we must not store any absinthe near
the stove!
While absorbed
in the nuances of each absinthe, we were also excited to sample them in
cocktails. In keeping with the theme of absinthe history, Andrew served us up
three classic cocktails (recipes below) with absinthe as a key player: the
Corpse Reviver #2, the Chrysanthemum, and the Sazerac. Andrew’s parting advice
on the last is that to make a Sazerac New-Orleans-style, you must add the
absinthe to an empty glass and then toss it in the air to provide the proper
rinse. This is better advice for the first drink of the night than the last, if
you value your glassware.
- Corpse Reviver #2: gin, Cointreau, Lillet Blanc, absinthe
– shake with ice
- Chrysanthemum: dry vermouth, Benedictine, absinthe
– stir
- Sazerac: rye whiskey, sugar cube, Peychaud’s bitters, absinthe, steady hands for tossing glass – stir
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| Absinthe graduates |
Class is Dismissed
Having gained
knowledge, excellent drinks and a delicious meal provided by our hosts at the
Sorrento, we LUPEC members mingled in the plush Fireside Room. There were no
diplomas touting our expertise in the Field of Absinthe, but – even better! –
we were treated to parting favors: a
tasty “to-go cocktail” of the Clipper Ship (Voyager gin, Pur Blossom liqueur,
lime juice and Pacifique Absinthe), plus an atomizer of absinthe for our home
bars. We thank Andrew Bohrer, the
Sorrento Hotel, Alex, Molly and Jen for their great help in presenting another
informative, tasty LUPEC meeting.
Cheers to you all!
Janice Wilson Vaché (iceclinkdrink.com)
(A Necessary Diversion)
While
steeped in absinthe (almost literally), the opportunity to ask a distributor
about the state of liquor availability was too irresistible. Where and when
will cherished brands return to shelves? What should we stock up on before June
1? Andrew said that Voyager gin and
Pacifique Absinthe will be stocked next month at Fred Meyer and likely at
Metropolitan Market, QFC and independent stores as well. Andrew will post availability on the LUPEC
Facebook page to keep us updated. Those not wanting to run dry on smaller
Italian liqueurs should stock up; many of their producers are not prepared for
the changes in distribution.
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